Today, we're peering through the loupe at two of Rolex's most popular creations.
In one corner is the Oyster Perpetual - in the other, the Rolex Datejust.
At first glance, these luxury watches might seem similar, but their differences run deep. The Oyster Perpetual represents simplicity and functionality, a clean aesthetic without date complications. The Datejust, known for its date window with the Cyclops lens, brings a touch more utility to the table.
Both models often serve as gateways into the world of Rolex collecting. Their rich histories and the sheer diversity of options available make them appealing first purchases.
Whether you're team Oyster or team Datejust, read on and maybe, just maybe, we'll make you fall in love with the 'other' model.
Oyster Perpetual - History and Overview
The Oyster Perpetual, which merged these two revolutionary technologies, became the cornerstone of nearly every Rolex model that followed. Any Rolex featuring both the Oyster case and Perpetual rotor is, at its core, a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. The model name only changes when Rolex adds additional complications. For instance, with the addition of a date complication, the complete name becomes Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust.
Over the decades, Rolex has refined the Oyster Perpetual, improving its mechanics and subtly updating its look, but its simple, reliable, and well-made core identity hasn't changed.
Today, the Oyster Perpetual is often seen as the purest expression of Rolex design as well as Rolex's entry point. It comes in various sizes and colors, appealing to a wide range of tastes and serving as a stepping stone into the world of Rolex watches.
Rolex Datejust - History and Overview
The Rolex Datejust made its debut in 1945, celebrating Rolex's 40th anniversary. It was the first self-winding wristwatch to display the date in a window on the dial, a feature that quickly became iconic. The date would change instantaneously at midnight, giving the watch its name - "Datejust."
In 1954, the Cyclops lens was introduced, a magnifying bubble over the date window that became a signature element of this Rolex watch model and went on to grace many more.
Over the years, the Datejust has featured a wide array of materials, dial designs, and bracelet options and remains one of Rolex's best selling models.
Rolex Datejust vs Oyster Perpetual: Differences & Similarities
| 2024 Quick Comparison Table | ||
|---|---|---|
| Features | Rolex Oyster Perpetual | Rolex Datejust |
| Year Introduced | 1926 (Oyster) / 1931 (Perpetual) | 1945 |
| Movement | Caliber 3230 (No date complication) | Caliber 3235 (With date complication) |
| Case Sizes | 28mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm, 41mm | 28mm, 31mm, 36mm, 41mm |
| Materials | Oystersteel | Oystersteel, Rolesor (Steel and Gold), Solid Gold |
| Dial Options | Various Colors | Classic colors with sunburst brushed or patterned finishes |
| Bezel Options | Smooth bezel | Smooth, Fluted, or Diamond-set bezels |
| Bracelet Styles | Oyster bracelet only | Oyster, Jubilee, & President bracelets |
Bracelet Styles
Oyster Perpetual Bracelet
The Oyster Perpetual comes exclusively with Rolex's classic Oyster bracelet. This three-link bracelet is made from Oystersteel, Rolex's corrosion-resistant alloy, and features a folding Oysterclasp. With such a well-designed and proven bracelet, it's hard to argue for more options. The Oyster bracelet has been refined over decades, striking a perfect balance between durability and comfort. It's a true one-bracelet-fits-all solution and can be worn casually or as a dress watch.
However, if you crave more variety, let's discuss Datejust's options.
Datejust Bracelet
As with the Oyster Perpetual, many Datejust models share the three-link Oyster bracelet. There's also the choice of a Jubilee bracelet, a five-link design that adds a touch more elegance to the mix. Originally created for the Datejust in 1945, the Jubilee bracelet has become a Rolex icon in its own right.
The Jubilee offers a bit more flash with its intricate links, making it a favorite for those who want their watch to make a little more visual impact.
It's worth mentioning the President bracelet as well. While more commonly associated with the Day-Date model, some precious metal Datejust versions, particularly in the ladies' sizes, are available with this semi-circular three-link bracelet. Some Datejust President bracelets even have diamonds encrusted in the bracelet.
Bracelet styles are available in various materials to match the case, including Oystersteel, two-tone (steel and gold), or solid gold.
Case Sizes and Materials
Oyster Perpetual Case Sizes and Materials
There's an Oyster Perpetual for almost every wrist size or preference. Current models are available in 28mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm, and 41mm diameters. Once again, Rolex keeps it simple but stylish with the Oyster Perpetual. All models are only available in Oystersteel.
Rolex Datejust 36 126200 Wristwatch, Blue Fluted Motif Dial
Datejust Case Sizes and Materials
The Datejust also offers a wide range of case sizes, currently available in 28mm (Lady-Datejust), 31mm, 36mm, and 41mm diameters.
While Oystersteel is available, the Datejust also comes in:
- Yellow Rolesor (combination of Oystersteel and yellow gold)
- White Rolesor (combination of Oystersteel and white gold)
- Everose Rolesor (combination of Oystersteel and Everose gold)
- 18 ct yellow gold
- 18 ct white gold
- 18 ct Everose gold
Movements
Oyster Perpetual Movement
The Oyster Perpetual is equipped with Rolex's Caliber 3230, a self-winding mechanical movement introduced in 2020 and entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex.
Caliber 3230 includes:
- Chronergy escapement for greater energy efficiency and reliability
- Blue Parachrom hairspring, providing greater resistance to shocks and temperature variations
- 70-hour power reserve
- Precision of -2/+2 seconds per day to exceed official chronometer standards
Datejust Movement
The Datejust models typically use the Caliber 3235, which isn’t that dissimilar to the Oyster Perpetual's movement. The real difference is the instantaneous date mechanism, which allows for rapid date changes at midnight.
Dials
Oyster Perpetual Dials
While there is no date function on the dial, the Oyster Perpetual now has a surprisingly vibrant range of dial options, especially since its 2020 update. Current color options include:
- Bright Blue
- Candy Pink
- Coral Red
- Green
- Yellow
- Turquoise Blue
- Silver
- Black
- Celebration (In celebration of all the new vibrant dial colors)
Most of these dials feature a sunburst finish, giving them a subtle, radiant glow. The hour markers are simple batons filled with Rolex's Chromalight luminescent material.
Datejust Dials
As you might expect, the Datejust has an extensive array of dial options:
- Colors: From classic silver, black, and white to more vibrant blue, green, and champagne.
- Patterns: Options include sunburst, brushed, and the iconic Rolex fluted pattern.
- Materials: Choices range from standard metal to mother-of-pearl and even meteorite for select models.
- Index options: Batons, Arabic numerals, Roman numerals, jewels, or diamonds.
A defining feature of the Datejust dial is the date window at 3 o'clock, magnified by the Cyclops lens on the crystal. The Datejust pioneered this combination of date display and magnifying lens.
The Cyclops lens became such a signature Rolex feature that it was subsequently incorporated into other models, including the Rolex Submariner Date and GMT-Master II. Even the Sea-Dweller, which long resisted the addition, finally received a Cyclops lens in its 2017 update.
Some Datejust dials also feature special designs, such as the "palm" motif or "fluted" pattern, which are exclusive to this model.
Bezels
Oyster Perpetual Bezels
The modern Oyster Perpetual does not have the fluted bezel of some Datejust models or the rotatable bezel found on watches like the Rolex Submariner or GMT-Master II. Instead, all current production models have a simple, smooth or domed bezel. The simplicity of the bezel allows the dial colors to take center stage while maintaining the classic Rolex profile.
Rolex Datejust 36 126200 Wristwatch, Blue Fluted Motif Dial | Rolex Datejust 36 126233 Wristwatch, Champagne Diamond Dial | Rolex Datejust 36 126284RBR Wristwatch, Bright Black Diamond Dial
Datejust Bezels
Compared to the more uniformly designed Oyster Perpetual, the Datejust has more variety in bezel options.
- Smooth Bezel: Similar to the Oyster Perpetual for a sleek, modern look.
- Fluted Bezel: Perhaps the most iconic Datejust bezel, the fluted design features a pattern of triangular cuts around the circumference. This bezel is crafted in 18ct gold (even on steel models).
- Diamond-Set Bezel: Available on certain models, this luxurious option adds a ring of flawless and colorless perfect cut diamonds to the bezel.
Pricing and Resale Value
Oyster Perpetual Pricing and Resale
The Oyster Perpetual is generally considered Rolex's entry-level model. Prices start at $5,550 for the smallest size and $6,400 for the largest 41mm version with a silver dial. These prices are for new models from authorized dealers.
Despite being the most affordable Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual holds its value remarkably well with resale value remaining strong.
Rolex Datejust 31 278243 Wristwatch, White Roman Dial
Datejust Pricing and Resale
Datejust pricing varies widely due to the multitude of options available. Steel models start at $6,900 for the Lady-Datejust 28mm Ref. 279160, with prices increasing for larger sizes, precious metal versions, and those with diamond-set dials or bezels. Gold Datejust models exceed $30,000.
Again, this is retail; you'll have more options on the secondary market.
The resale value for Datejusts generally trends positively, though it can fluctuate based on the specific configuration.
Oyster Perpetual or Datejust
Now you know the difference between Rolex Datejust and Oyster Perpetual. Did it sway your choice?
The Oyster Perpetual is straightforward elegance incarnate. Your main decision? Pick a dial color and size. It's the "don't overthink it" choice. Without a date function, it offers a clean, symmetrical dial that some purists prefer.
View Our Pre-Owned Oyster Perpetual Collection
The Datejust, however, gives you more to ponder. Do you want the classic fluted bezel or something smoother? Jubilee or Oyster bracelet? Two-tone or all steel? You also get the practical advantage of the date function, complete with the iconic Cyclops lens.
Explore Our Pre-Owned Datejust Selection
Both the Oyster Perpetual and the Datejust carry the Rolex pedigree. Whatever you choose - either way, you're wearing a crown.
